Thecnics

    The change of Sichuan cuisine may be traced back to the end the Qing Dynasty under the rules of Qing Feudal government. At that time, a regulation prescribes that a local person shall never be a senior official in the local place, also known as native place avoidance. The corrupt Qing Dynasty will appoint a person not from the local place to govern and manage such place. The senior officials always build up their authority through their ostentatious behavior. For example, He Lunkui, police security director in Sichuan, is a man from the north area, who particular care about the dishes, and therefore he brought some famous chef to Chengdu; Zhou Shanpei(native of Shaoxing), Hypothec Governor, brought some famous chef from Changjiang River Delta, who especially pay attention to graceful and elegant style. The two kinds famous chef representing the north and the south produce influence to Sichuan cuisine. However, the parlance of basin idea hasnt been formed at that times, additionally the powerful govern of the feudal dynasty impact on the expansion of Sichuan cuisine. There were little decent restaurant operated by the Han nationality. Until the 23rd year of the Guangxu Period of the Qing Dynasty (1897), Li Jiuru, native of Hejiang, went to Chengdu and established Jufengyuan Restaurant in Guandi Temple, Litang Street. From then on, Chengdu people broadened theirs horizon and called this Restaurant as Jufeng Nantang. Li Jiuru, chef in Beijing for nearly ten years, not only acquainted himself with the south and the north taste, but also familiarized with eight kinds of cuisine. Except Chinese cuisine, you also can find western dishes in his Jufengyuan. Therefore, the foreign consulate in Chengdu invited Li Jiuru to cook. Once, Zheng Shaoqing, served in French consulate, has invited Li Jiuru to cook for foreign guests combining the west and the north dishes. Some creative dishes, such as Sweet & sour ox tail soup, etc., have appeared here. Li Jiuru has ever communicated with Hypothec Governor Zhou Shanpei and Fan Kongzhou, a famous person in commercial circle of Chengdu, and set up the earliest Jufengyuan(adjacent to Shimeixuan, a famous restaurant in current Huaxing Zhengjie of Chengdu city) for Hypothec Store newly built in Huaxing Zhengjie(the current business store was constructed in 1907). For the exchange of cuisine culture and fusion of human relationships, Baoxiguan Zhengxingyuan was established in 1861(former in Huguang'guan, Mianhua Street, and now in 2nd Section of Dongfeng Road, Shudu Dadao).  In his restaurant, the Manchu Guan Zhengxing, specializing in official cooking, has brought Jing cuisine Man-Han Feast as well as Manchu chef Qi LeZhai and Quan Guishu. From then on, famous chef gathered here, forming the fusion of North and South. Lan Guangjian, by establishment of Rongleyuan (1911), inherited and carried forward Zhengxingyuan's fine traditions, trained excellent chef, such as Wu Wenxuan, Zhou Yinnan, Zhang Songyuan, Kong Daosheng and Zeng Guohua(died). Mr. Lan said that the authentic Sichuan Cuisine was actually famous local dishes cooked by the proficient from the north and the south featuring with Sichuan taste. Cultural exchange, interpretation and supplement contribute the dishes creativeness.